Dante and Florence had an intense bond, but far from peaceful.
Born here in 1265, Dante deeply loved his city, walked its streets, breathed its political and cultural air, and drew inspiration for his greatest work, the Divine Comedy. But he was also forced to leave it, condemned to exile in 1302, never to return.
In his paramount work, Dante describes Florence as a city dominated by three great social evils: greed, power, and money. It is a poignant and lucid critique that hits a divided, corrupted city overwhelmed by vested interests.
Yet, despite exile and disappointment, Dante never ceased to recognize its greatness. He called it “the great villa,” or “the beautiful sheepfold,” praising the ingenuity of its citizens and the majesty of works like the Baptistery of San Giovanni, which he admired deeply.
A wounded love, but never extinguished: this sums up the relationship between Dante and Florence.
Dante and Florence
Today, walking through the medieval streets of the historic center, it is easy to come across tombstones and inscriptions that recall the poet’s relationship with his city.
A bond still alive, marked by affection but also by wounds that have never healed.
Right at the foot of the Baptistery of St. John, the place where Dante was baptized, there are two commemorative plaques. One celebrates the consecration of the building in 1059; the other recalls the poet’s desire to return to Florence. A desire that unfortunately remained unheard.
Map of the itinerary
This itinerary crosses the medieval heart of Florence, between places significant to Dante and historical testimonies.
Here are the main stops we will take together:
- Baptistery of St. John
- Dantesque Neighborhood (Dante’s House and Church of Santa Margherita dei Cerchi)
- Chestnut Tower
- Church of San Martino al Vescovo
- Basilica of Santa Croce
Step 1: Baptistery of San Giovanni
“My beautiful San Giovanni,” Dante calls it inParadise.This is where he is baptized, and it is this sacred space that defines the spiritual and cultural identity of medieval Florence.
In the 19th canto of the Inferno, Dante recounts a personal episode: while he was found in the Baptistery, saving a child who had fallen into one of the four pits surrounding the baptismal font, risking drowning.
A vivid and human memory that connects his memory to the sacred place. Even today, two plaques commemorate the poet’s connection to this place, a symbol of his Florence.
Step 2: The Dante district
The so -called “Dante’s neighborhood” is one of the most suggestive areas of the historical center.
Here the medieval atmosphere is still palpable: narrow alleys, towers, collected churches. It is the heart of Florence lived by Dante, where he spent his childhood and youth.
Dante’s house
The house-museum is located in via Santa Margherita. Even if it is not about the True home of the poet, today it hosts a permanent exhibition dedicated to his life and Florence of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. An excellent starting point for those who want to understand the historical and political context in which Dante lived and wrote.
Church of Santa Margherita dei Cerchi
Not far away is this small Romanesque church, linked to the figure of Beatrice Portinari.
Here Dante would have met her for the first time, and – according to tradition – it would be buried here.
Inside, visitors still leave love letters to Beatrice today, making it a sort of “halical saint” of ideal love and converted into a seat for a brotherhood for the assistance of the poor. Today, it retains an intimate and secluded atmosphere, far from tourist flows.
Step3: Tower of Castagna
Located near Piazza della Signoria, this medieval tower is one of the few remaining intact in Florence.In 1300, when Dante was appointed prior of the Florentine Republic, the Torre della Castagna was the venue for the meetings of the priors. For this reason, it is also known as “Bocca di ferro”: the voting took place through a system of chestnuts used as ballots, hence the name.It is a key place to understand Dante’s political involvement and the deep causes of his exile.
Stop 4: Church of San Martino al Vescovo
This small church, now little known, is linked to a private moment in the poet’s life.It is believed that the marriage between Dante and Gemma Donati, who belonged to a powerful Florentine family, was celebrated here.In the 15th century, the church was suppressed and converted into the headquarters of a brotherhood for assisting the poor. Today it retains an intimate and secluded atmosphere, away from the tourist flows.
Step 5: Basilica of Santa Croce
Last stage of our itinerary, but certainly not the least important.
The Basilica of Santa Croce is considered the “Pantheon” of Florence: Michelangelo, Galileo Galilei, and Machiavelli are buried here.
Dante does not rest among them, but an imposing cenotaph, created in the 19th century by Stefano Ricci, celebrates his memory.The allegorical statues that adorn it refer to the themes of the Comedy, and recall the eternal value of his literary legacy. Florence, which exiled him, continues to honor him.
Curiosities and insights on Dante’s life
- Did you know that Dante, before becoming a poet, was a brave knight in the battle of Campaldino between the Guelphs and Ghibellines?
- Did you know that Dante and Beatrice never actually “dated” and that the platonic love Dante always felt for her since he was 9 years old led to his daughter, born with Gemma Donati, being named Beatrice?
- Did you know that Dante and Beatrice never actually “dated” and that the platonic love Dante always felt for her since he was 9 years old he made it so that his daughter, born with Gemma Donati, would be named Beatrice?
Practical tips for the tour
The Dante itinerary is perfectly walkable, and it is suitable for all ages. The stops are close to each other and all located in the historical center.
Some useful advice:
- Accessibility: all places are outdoors or easily visitable. The route is flat.
- Tickets: the Casa di Dante is the only stop with an entrance fee. The others are free or can be viewed from the outside.
- Duration: to visit everything at a leisurely pace, plan for about 2 hours.
- Best time: the itinerary is perfect all year round, but autumn and spring offer the best light to enjoy medieval Florence.
To truly experience this journey through history, poetry, and symbolic places, the best way is to rely on an experienced guide. I will accompany you through centuries of history, among verses, curiosities, and anecdotes that only a live narrative can fully convey.
Contact me to organize a personalized tour tracing Dante. I will take you to discover the Florence of yesterday through the eyes of today.
